First Time Japan Travel Tips
This guide is intended to supplement your other Japan travel resources. It covers some notes and tips (including some aikido-specific ones) I have accumulated during my travels to Japan. I hope it helps you during your trip – feel free to send me updates or new findings you think others would find helpful.
FOR PLANNING: Japan Guide is a phenomenal resource. Check out their suggested itineraries, recommended sites in each city (and side trips), and general food and travel tips. Pretty much anything else you need or want to know about Japan travel is on there too.
Flights… There are non-stop flights from NYC to both Narita and Haneda on ANA, getting into/out of Tokyo by public transit is less expensive from Haneda and may require less travel-time from airport to lodging, depending on where in Tokyo you're staying. I highly recommend trying to take a Japanese airline (ANA / JAL) -- code shares, i.e United which partners with ANA are not the same. If you have a lot of AmEx points, ANA has a fantastic exchange rate; however you can only secure seats about three weeks prior to travel and I would only recommend this option if your travel days are a bit flexible.
WIFI / SIM CARDS:
Wifi: There is now a decent amount of free wifi, especially in Tokyo, however, you may need the (free) japan wifi app to connect to it - search for Japan Connected-Free Wifi in the App Store. Load it and register before you arrive in Japan/need to use it. Some konbini’s (convenience stores, ie 7-11s) and many subway stations have free wifi.
SIM Card/Router: If your phone allows you to change out the SIM (confirm with your provider), you can order a local SIM card to use during your visit. Order it ahead of time (which also registers it). Then, just follow the clear instructions when you arrive and it's ready to go (don't loose your old SIM though!). There are a few companies and all offer data only, you will not get a local phone number unfortunately, but use whatsapp, fb messenger, skype, or facetime audio to call home easily, and the hotel phone for local calls.
I have used eConnect twice and been really happy with them. Their customer service (via email, their English is excellent) is very fast and responsive. They can deliver the SIM to your hotel (recommended) or you can pick it up at the airport post office (easy, but probably not something you want to deal with on your first trip). I have also asked Airbnb hosts to receive the envelope and leave it for me at the apartment (definitely confirm with your host before proceeding).
Important… Order it before you leave for your trip to make sure they have the product in stock and it arrives at your destination before you do.
Portable Wireless Router: EConnect offers other options if your phone cannot use a foreign SIM card. I think you can also rent portable wifi devices at the airport tech shop when you arrive at the airport (the fee for wireless routers is based on # of days). Note that some Airbnb hosts offer a portable router that you can use while staying at their apartment (a wonderful resource, do be aware of any data limits they impose).
Summary: Wifi (coupled with offline google maps, see recommended apps) is a viable option, especially if you’re only visiting Tokyo. Portable routers are a great option if you cannot change out your US SIM card and want consistent Internet access, but they must be returned. SIM cards can be disposed when your trip is over, refilled if your data plans runs out and tend to be cheaper for long term use, but are best ordered before leaving for your trip.
RECOMMENDED APPS
Hyperdia: Free for 30 days, incredible resource for train times, distances and recommended routes. You can customize settings to sort route by travel time or number of stops etc. Last I checked, the app was a bit outdated and has only slightly better functionality than Google Maps for basic routes; however, the filter for Rail Pass travel may be very helpful.
Google Maps: Probably the app which I most appreciate during all my travels. Wonderful for point-to-point travel via the subways, especially in Tokyo/Kyoto. It usually tells you the cost of the ticket(s) and even the platform number. Additionally, I highly recommend downloading areas offline ahead of time (ie Tokyo and Kyoto). You will then have map search functionality without using data.
Cool tip… Using wifi and google maps (ie at your hotel), set your route. Leaving (the hotel), you’ll loose the wifi connection, but the GPS will still track you without any service. The GPS (the little blue dot indicating your current location) will be visible without data and you can follow the route to your pre-set destination.
Japan Connected-Free Wifi: Make sure you are logged in and it is fully up to date before you need to use it. Essential for connecting to many free wifi hotspots in Japan. I did find it needs to be updated often, so be sure to check the app frequently if you’re solely relying on wifi during your trip.
Whatsapp (and other free call/text services): Great way to communicate with family and friends using data only (text and calls). Also, super fast photo sharing. Note both sender and receiver must have the app for it to work.
ARRIVING AT NARITA AIRPORT
- There are a lot of help desks (with English speakers)
- Free wifi in many spots, definitely on train platforms (you may need the free wifi app to access them)
- Round trip NEX (Narita Airport to Tokyo) train ticket discount for foreigners: if you want to save a few dollars (and are not using a Japan Rail Pass), but definitely double check the fastest route to your destination, as it may not be the NEX train (ask a help desk for recommend route if you are unsure).
- My usual / favorite route from Narita to Shinjuku usually involves taking the Skyliner to Keisei-Ueno Station and then walking (underground, you can avoid stairs the entire way) to Ueno-Okachimachi Station Oedo line which gets me to the subway station nearest Hombu dojo (close to where I usually stay). Note this is not the cheapest route, and again, ask a help desk to confirm your best route.
- You are still over an hour from your final destination – it’s a beautiful train ride (enjoy the rice fields as you zip by) and there is often snack/drink cart service, but you’re not there yet!
- Some trains (ie NEX) to Tokyo stop running around 10p, keep in mind when booking your flight
- The town of Narita is supposed to be cute if you end up with extra time or the desire to visit it
TRANSPORTATION
Taxis: Relatively expensive in Tokyo (although the city recently changed the pricing scheme to make shorter trips more reasonable); note the doors open/close automatically and there is no tipping
Subways: Excellent and very logical, almost always the most pleasant way to get around Tokyo. Signs in the subway are pretty much all in both English and Japanese. Note they do not run 24/7.
If you will be taking trains frequently in Tokyo (staying more than a couple days), I highly recommend getting a Pasmo or Suico pass (they have the same functionality). Load it with money and then just scan when entering and exiting the subways. It makes all subway rides, especially those with transfers, significantly faster and more pleasant than buying a ticket each time you get on the train. They work for all Tokyo train lines (unlike individual tickets which are train line specific). You can get one at almost all subway ticket machines. There is a 500 yen (about $5) deposit when you first buy it which is returned when you are done with it (just give the pass to the gate agent at your final gate and he'll return the 500 yen deposit). Each person needs their own, sharing not allowed. The machines all have an English option.
Cool Tip… Use your Pasmo/Suico pass at vending machines, 7-11s etc too if you see the logo at checkout.
Subway Tips
1… I like to load PDF of the Tokyo subway map on my phone so I can zoom in / stare at it on the subway without being super obvious with a paper map.
2… Look for an oversized map after exiting the turnstiles before leaving the station. If you are going somewhere specific, it’s helpful to choose the best exit before exiting the station.
3… Transfers are well marked, but depending on the train lines, may be quite far apart despite being in the same station.
4… There are almost always elevators somewhere if you do not want to take stairs, but (from street level) you may need to cross the street for a different subway entrance to find the elevator
5… Take advantage of the lockers located in most subway stations to store large bags rather than dragging them around all day with you! Most take only 100yen coins (change machines generally available).
Fun tip… One of my favorite parts of the subway (aside from the timeliness and cleanliness) are the public service posters on how to be a good passenger – keep an eye out for them.
Shinkansen: You can generally exchange your shinkansen (express train) tickets for an earlier (or later) train without penalty at least once so long as there is availability, so if you’re super early to the station, you may want to consider taking an earlier train. Use Hyperdia for trip planning and pricing information before purchasing or exchanging tickets.
Tip… Tokyo and Shinjuku station are monstrosities – you can easily get turned around and end up wandering for an hour (intentionally or by accident), so give yourself time if traveling in or out of them. As an aside, the food in these stations is exceptional.
Yet another tip… Eating on subways is considered bad etiquette, but eating and drinking (alcohol included!) is totally normal on long distance trains/shinkansen. Try a bento box (or be jealous of everyone else with one!)
Japan Rail Pass: I know people rave about this pass, but I have actually not used one during my trips (which are fairly structured). I tend to stay in individual cities for too long to make the pass worthwhile since they are unlimited travel w/in a set number of days. If you price it out and it makes sense for you, just be sure to purchase before you leave the US.
RESTAURANTS
1… Some restaurants have English menus, some have picture menus and some have only Japanese menus. Don't be scared to go in if the food looks good! You can always subtlety point to other people's dishes to indicate what you want or to the plastic models in the window if there’s a gap in communication.
2… If you have any allergies, have someone write those down for you in Japanese so there’s no confusion
3… You’ll find some great noodle spots in subway stations (subway/train stations are often good for an inexpensive, quick and tasty meal)
4… After breaking your chopsticks, try to refrain from smoothing out the splinters, a big western faux pas
5… Assume cash only unless you go to a very high-end restaurant (and even then, double check)
6… If solo, I recommend sitting at the counter when possible, more fun for interacting
7… Have your hotel or a tourist info center make reservations for you at restaurants that require them
8… Asking your server for a recommendation will only make them uncomfortable or confused
Helpful: Chef's recommendations (osusume) or the chef's choice (omakase)
9… Bakeries are superb and easy for a quick sandwich or treat
10… Over-ordering or leaving food uneaten is considered very wasteful; some restaurants will not even bring the next course until your plate is empty!
11... Water (and tea!) is usually self-service and free at any casual restaurant, i.e. those where you order at a ticket machine
NOTES FOR…TOKYO
Metropolitan Governmental Building. I recommend checking out the Metropolitan Governmental Building in Shinjuku (if the weather is clear). There's a free observation desk at the top with panorama city views. There's also an excellent tourist information center (one for Tokyo only and a separate one for the whole country) if you want to get maps, guides, have questions etc. Even after a handful of trips to Tokyo, this is almost always my first stop to stock up on maps and take a peak at the view.
Tip... Ask for a list of special events for the current and subsequent weeks of your visit from the TI center, it'll include festivals, exhibits etc. Also, pick up a copy of TimeOut Tokyo (it's in English) for other cool event listings and local food recommendations.
This is my favorite Tokyo guide (link is PDF), they have free copies in some of the subways and at any tourism bureau (the neighborhood guides a little ways in are really helpful). Also pick up a Time Out Tokyo if you go to Tourism Bureau.
Tsukiji Market. If you want to go, I would recommend going at the very beginning of your trip when your jetlag is brutal and you’re wide awake at 3a anyways. Read up on the process for watching the tuna auction if it’s something you want to check out.
Not to miss neighborhoods… Asakusa, Meiji-Jinju Shrine in Yoyogi Park, Shinjuku-Goen Park, Ueno/Yanaka, Omotosando (nice architecture, fancier shops etc), Shinjuku (crazy but interesting to walk through, especially at night), Akihabara (interesting area to walk around and stock up on inexpensive electronics)
In Shinjuku… A fun (maybe a little touristy, but neat experience) yakitori alley if you can find it.
If you’re only going to check out one museum… Edo-Tokyo Museum is excellent. There are some excellent special exhibits at other museums, ask a TI center for more info about what's showing while you're in Tokyo.
Like Yayoi Kusama? If you're interested in checking out her new museum in Tokyo, plan ahead. It books up months in advance.
Food Courts. In the basement of many large department stores (Takashimaya is my favorite, Isetan is nearby and also great) – the food halls are spectacular, even just to peruse.
Great places to buy gifts for people back home:
1… Tokyo Hands (in Shinjuku), stationary is on 7th or 8th floor
2… Kiddyland (in Omotosando), for Lego lovers, check out the Nanoblocks
3... The gift stores of the major museums, i.e. the National Art Center in Tokyo
4... Kit Kats in unique Japanese flavors are always popular if you need shareable goodies (i.e. for the office). You can usually find a bag of individually wrapped mini ones for between 250-400yen. These are also available at the airports, but will cost a bit more.
Day Trip: Kamakura is nice and easy for a partial day if you want to get out of the city
Japan-guide has other recommendations as well.
NOTES FOR… KYOTO
I strongly recommend checking out some of the less tourist-heavy but still incredible sites. I finally figured this out on my third visit to Kyoto and was so much happier because of it.
Check out a full list of sites in Kyoto.
Tips…
1… Meander through their monthly flea markets
2… The basement food hall of Takashimaya Department Store is a must
3… If you like Japanese whisky, check out the Yamazaki Distillery tour, fills up well in advance, check site one month prior to reserve tickets
4… If you’re interested, the Moss Temple requires complicated reservation well in advance, so plan ahead
5... The food in Kyoto is phenomenal, but it can be nearly impossible to walk into a restaurant at dinnertime and get a table. Make reservations ahead of time (even a day in advance can be okay).
Biking. Renting a bike and taking a bike ride along the river is one of my favorite activities in Kyoto – between watching the birds and the kids playing in the river, it’s such a happy place. Note on Japanese bikes, the back break may be on the left side not the right (as in US) and ask for a quick kickstand demo (there’s an extra step US bikes do not require). Bikers in Japan can always ride on the sidewalks (carefully), and almost no one wears helmets (the hardest part for me to get used to).
AIKIDO
Hombu: Copy and paste this in Google maps if you are having trouble finding the dojo: 合気道学校
At the dojo, you can pay a daily rate or just pay for the month (after about six days you break even - note monthly rate does not include Sundays and the month is a calendar month). There's a hombu app that has updated schedule. Note the 6:30a classes (Doshu and Waka sensei) are generally pretty crowded, but other classes may have a bit more room. Most teachers do not change partners (some exceptions). In the summer, teachers may allow a water break so bring a water bottle and leave it in the back of the room.
Entry (1st floor). bring Aikikai card or yudansha book, pay fee (cash only), take off shoes area
2nd floor. bathroom (women/men), women's changing room, beginner classes mat
3rd floor. men's changing room, main practice mat (men enter mat via men's changing room).
Note: bring a 100 yen coin to use lockers (it gets returned), no hot water, there’s a key area to hang locker keys you’ll see when you get on mat
More detailed notes for visitors: From Hombu website, and from a long-time Hombu student.
Iwata: If you want to get gis/ hakamas best to order ahead and pick up when you get to Tokyo to ensure size availability (and embroidered names can take a couple weeks). There are usually maps at front desk of Hombu – it’s about 15 min walk from dojo.
GENERAL
Baggage: Of course, packing light is always a good strategy for more pleasant travel. Regardless, I strongly recommend you consider using Ta-Q-Bin (Yamato Transport), which does baggage point-to-point pickup and delivery (your hotel can arrange if you’re going hotel to hotel). You can send your bags from one city to most other cities in Japan in about one day, est $15 for a standard size piece of luggage (regardless of weight). Although it’s best to take any valuables with you, it’s super safe (I could go on and on about how much I love this service). They are working on making it more English friendly in anticipation of the 2020 Olympics (there are definitely limitations for non-Japanese speakers). I think they do have an airport to hotel service (I haven’t tried that one yet though).
Bathrooms: Public bathrooms are everywhere and generally very clean (I swoon just thinking about Tokyo’s subway bathrooms). Also, 7-11s have very clean bathrooms and you do not need to feel at all uncomfortable going in just to use the restroom. However, some restrooms do not have soap or hand towels. There is usually at least one western toilet (always check back stall before giving up). Ladies, note for Japanese style toilets, you face opposite the direction you face in western toilets.
Drinking: A great summary of the differences between types of alcohol (and etiquette). Nihonshu (aka sake) is delicious, plentiful and inexpensive. I highly recommend drinking as much of it as possible while there.
Flea Markets: Try to visit one while you’re in Tokyo or Kyoto!
I visited one in Tokyo (that's only held two weekends a year) -- it was enormous and crowded, but also incredible. I also went to two in Kyoto (that are monthly) and while both had similar vendors, both were fantastic for exploring and getting some well-priced souvenirs, a very cool experience even if you aren’t planning to buy anything (good luck with that!)
Lodging: Still looking for a place to stay (near Hombu)? Check out my Airbnb tips; other options include business hotels and (at least one) hostel that I know of.
Lost? Don’t be surprised by helpfulness! People are super nice when you ask for help/directions (assuming they understand), and they may actually walk you to your destination if they aren’t too busy! It’s totally normal. And some popular tourist sites have free English walking tours, tipping not required.
Medications: Bring all essential and just-in-case medicine with you. It is extremely difficult to align US meds with comparable Japanese versions and some, like Sudafed, are not legally available (I found this out the hard way during allergy season).
Money: Most places are cash only or cash preferred. Good to change out some money into yen ahead of time if possible. Aside from banks, post offices and 7-11s (my preferred) generally work with US ATM cards. Also, be sure to let you your bank (and cc companies) know you’re going overseas.
If you exchange money in the US, get a few 2000 Yen bills (~$20 USD) -- they are considered lucky in Japan and difficult to get there (but easy here!). Use when paying restaurant or store owners who you like and they will feel special. Also, FYI, 10000 Yen bills (~$100 USD) are common there (whereas in the US it can be difficult for places to make change), so no worries if you end up with large bills.
When making a purchase, place money on counter (there’s usually a coin tray) rather than into vendor’s hand. Remember there is no tipping at restaurants, taxis etc. If you’re confused by coins, just hold out your palm and cashiers will often help by selecting the appropriate change for you.
Onsens: As a westerner, it may be awkward at first, but once you get the hang of it, they are likely to become one of your favorite and subsequently, most missed parts of Japanese travel (as they are for me). Try the cold plunge after the super hot baths (if it’s an option) for a surprisingly enjoyable experience. Be sure to wash before entering the water, and do not submerge your head, hair or towel into the baths. Note: Many onsens do not allow people with tattoos to enter unfortunately. Other onsen rules (and you thought you knew how to take a bath…).
Produce: Fruit can be very expensive (double check price before purchasing) but veggies are inexpensive and some of the best I've ever had! Also, grocery stores are fun, even just to peruse.
Shopping: Japanese don't really negotiate. Service is excellent and they'll be super nice when they say no, just don't expect freebie's / discounts. And returns are very complicated, so best to assume whatever you buy is for keeps.
Sweets: The sweets in Japan are beautiful, delicious little works of art. Be sure to note, however, their best-by dates, many are only good for a couple days.
Trash: There are very few, if any, public trashcans, assume you will need to carry any trash you make. There are trashcans at the konbinis (7-11s, Family Marts). Recycling is big. People rarely eat or drink while walking around – employing this habit will help minimize the need for frequent trash cans.
Visitor Centers (often located inside main train stations): My first stop in every Japanese city I visit is the visitor center, it’s a wonderful resource for free maps, suggested walking itineraries, help with reservations and any other questions you have.
TV Shows/Movies that will get you excited about Japanese food:
Available on Netflix or iTunes, watch some on the long flight!
1… The Mind of a Chef: Momofuku chef
2… Chef’s Table: Niki Nakayama (she’s in LA but Japanese)
3… No Reservations (one or two on Japan)
4… Parts Unknown (one or two on Japan)
5… Jiro Dreams of Sushi
6… Midnight Diner
Also, I often read NYTimes 36 Hours articles for the cities I’m visiting (below for Tokyo and Kyoto):
http://www.nytimes.com/2013/05/05/travel/36-hours-in-tokyo.html?_r=0
http://www.nytimes.com/2015/10/18/travel/what-to-do-in-36-hours-in-eastern-tokyo.html
http://www.nytimes.com/2014/03/02/travel/36-hours-in-kyoto-japan.html
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/04/25/travel/25hours.html
LAST STOP: If you want one last sushi meal and are flying out of Narita Airport, Kyotatsu Sushi, located in (International) Terminal 1, near gate 32 (if I’m not mistaken) is superb (a little bit pricey but worthwhile).